During a walk-through of his collection, Pedro Lourenço shared the news that he has designed a range of women’s training apparel for Nike that hits NikeLab stores in November.
There seems to be some distance between Lourenço’s clothes and fitnesswear, but the Brazilian designer worked from a theme of “hybrids” this season, treating ideas symbiotically rather than disparately. As far as materials, he revisited his printing technique atop sequins—its novelty runs no risk of waning—while experimenting with a pattern of laser-cut satin placed over neoprene crepe. In vowing to be more sensitive to resources and to the environment, Lourenço developed a rather convincing snakeskin by applying a unique scaly film to suede. What matters for the designer is that an imitation assumes the “behavior” of its original. Such talk can seem nebulous, but when he showed how the scan of a shell’s form yielded the curved planes of a dress hem, his thought process became apparent. Lourenço’s collaboration with Nike motivated the scuba zippers, only his bear gold teeth. Bustier tops with vents like fins and lacing in lobster red enhanced the collection’s attitude, but seemed to force the theme.
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